Saturday, 24 November 2012

The End to Naivety, Serenity and Security


I'm not so sure I should publish this post, but many people have asked about it and this seems to be the easiest way to describe it. 

14 April 2012

At around 2.15 AM this morning Luke and I were held up and robbed.

(Even though months have passed since this incident actually occurred, I am battling to get the courage to write about this experience that truly shattered my naivety and sense of security.)

Surfacing from a deep sleep, my mind registered the sound of people talking as they entered the house and stomped along the wooden floors. These must be the visitors that the owner was expecting to arrive earlier today I sleepily mused. I opened my eyes and began sitting up as two figures roughly opened the creaking door to Luke and my room, which caused them to notice our presence in the room more quickly. They started shouting to each other as one flicked the light switch on and I blindly tried to make sense of the situation in the glare.

“Lie down! Go to sleep!” They yelled as they roughly pushed us both back onto our beds. Go to sleep. I.e. close your eyes so that you won’t be able to identify them. The one who did all the talking (there were two of them, Xhosa speaking and from the location), he whispered that phrase in my ear often. Go to sleep. The quiet one was more terrifying though, and kept his hand thrust in his pants pocket. When he reached my bed, he snatched my phone from next to my head (I had been sleeping with it under my pillow and it had slipped out) and I had to fight back an urge through half opened eyes to grab it back. It was mine! Our bags were next to our bed, in full view. We had not thought that we needed to hide our things away. Luke’s camera bag was opened and his camera taken, as well as his phone. My handbag was emptied and my camera taken. They took the cash from our wallets (a substantial amount meant to tide us over until we could get back into res) but they left our bank cards and IDs – how kind. They chucked out Luke’s clothes from his bag and put their stolen merchandise in the bag. Luke’s laptop was added to the pile. They weren’t satisfied yet. They began shouting at Luke, pushing him roughly, asking him what else we had, to not lie otherwise they’d stab us. “Do you want me to fucking stab you huh? Do you want to die?” They pulled Luke from the top bunk, holding him by his collar, shaking him, forcing him to walk out the room. “Where are the keys to the gate?” They wanted the cars. They didn't believe Luke that we did not know where the keys were. They shoved him out to the Bantam, wanting him to drive them to the location. I was left in the room, a sniveling  shaking, useless being. I should have done something then. I should have found a weapon. I should have run out into the road screaming for help. Instead I stayed put in shock, praying with all my heart that they wouldn't hurt Luke, wishing that they would just leave. They shoved Luke back into the bedroom after they had made him tell them where my laptop was. They took that too. The next thing I knew they were yanking me up by my neck, telling me to get up, to keep my eyes closed. Go to sleep, do you want me to fucking stab you. Grunted into my ear constantly as I stumbled down steep stairs, my eyes barely open, my neck in his grip. They took us back out to the Bantam. They wanted Luke to drive them to the location. Luke calmly repeated again and again, “I don’t know where the keys are, I’m sorry, I don’t know, please just leave us alone, we won’t phone the police.” Eventually they took us back up the stairs (Don’t fucking open your eyes), to our room. Forcing us to lie face down on a bed. Face by my face, Go to sleep. “Don’t fucking well call the police. We’ll kill you. We’ll come back for you.” Heavy footsteps on the wooden floorboards. Trying my hardest to swallow my scream, to stop shaking. Hearing Luke whisper “Don’t make a sound Vanessa, don’t do anything stupid.” The silence stretching as we waited, hardly daring to breathe.

After an age, Luke slid off the bed to see that they had truly gone. They had. Not ten minutes after they had left, the only other inhabitant of the Backpackers arrived home from a grad party; an Argentinian who was living there semi-permanently. The girls who dropped him off kindly phoned the police for us. The dazed and inebriated Argentinian gave us the code to the Backpackers phone, shrugged his shoulders at our predicament, stated “This is Africa” as if it were his mantra, and went to bed. Phoning my dad was a bad idea. He began shouting at me, yelling: “Now what?” By the time I had hung up the phone in tears, a small group of the police had arrived. It was now about 3.30 AM. They noted the damage and took Luke’s statement. So how did two thugs get passed the electric fence and code system that had lulled us into a false sense of security? They had crow barred the pedestrian gate until the coded lock broke. Then they had attempted to break in the window before kicking in the door, again breaking the coded lock with brute force. The full extent of our loss became apparent when the police left us, awaiting 6.00 AM when the fingerprinting experts would come in. The bastards had taken our car keys – and the spares were sitting eleven hours away in Hilton with my family. The holiday work I had so meticulously done had been on my laptop that was taken. The exam I had been preparing that work for was on Monday. It was now Saturday. Luke’s camera which we had begged, worked, scrimped and saved for over two years for was gone. All the photos from our epic holiday, from which we had been on such a high, gone. Luke’s new laptop, my new laptop, the means to do our work, all my life’s photos, gone. Our cell phones, our only connection to our family so far from us, gone. In total, it all came to about R 25 000 of stolen equipment, and a lifetime of effort.

Too terrified to go back to sleep, I made tea for the two of us as we sat shivering in the lounge waiting for the police to come back. Although Luke had handled the situation calmly while it was happening, the shock took him now, and nausea took root. Thank you Lord that they hadn't been able to make him take them to the location. Thank you Lord that they barely noticed me, that they didn't rape me. It could have been worse. But when you have been through such an invasion of yourself mentally, you find it difficult not to accept that you got off relatively easy. To this day, I need to make sure that every door and window that surrounds me is well and truly locked, and there is barely a night that goes by that I don’t lie for hours thinking about all the things I could have done differently, all the ways I could have hurt them, what it would feel like to stab someone, to feel skin and meat give way to the slithering edge of a hefty kitchen knife, to hear the crack of a skull connecting with a pan, how would I have to hit a person’s temple to knock them senseless… If there had been but one other person with us, another guy, if the Argentinian guy had been there and not at a party…things could have been so different.

At 6.00 AM the police took fingerprints. My mom phoned the Backpackers phone to inform me that my dad was on his way to Grahamstown. He had left as soon as I had phoned. As frustrated and guilty as I felt about my dad driving all the way here, it made me feel better knowing that the person I trusted the most in the world would be here to help me deal with this. He was bringing my sister and her husband’s laptops for Luke and me to use in the meantime for our academics, and two old phones, one of which was a Nokia 3310 – still in perfect working condition. I can’t believe how indestructible those machines are! Luke and I mooched around the Backpackers for the day, with no way to go anywhere and nowhere to go. The owner kept offering me free cool drinks to ease her guilt at our situation, but she didn't feel guilty enough to give us back the money we had paid for the night. I used the Backpackers computer to redo my whole pre-practical exam preparation. I managed it in record time, and looking back I still have no clue how I managed to achieve that. My dad arrived in the late afternoon, having had eleven hours to stew in his frustration. Our reunion consisted of a lot of panicked and stressed out accusations and defensive comments. When he dropped me off at Smuts (Luke’s res) I was in tears again. Luke had driven in convoy behind us (Dad had brought our spare keys down) and was entirely bewildered by all this. However, amongst all the shouting Dad and I had shared a sweet short hug that said all the words we could never say, I love you and I’m so glad you’re okay. Then he turned his car around and began to make his way back home. He refused to stay in Grahamstown any longer. A crushing, depressing, damaging low made stronger in comparison to the two week high I had been on.

So ended my April holiday.  



The Calm Before the Storm


13 April 2012

An unlucky day to herald the end to our incredible holiday, Luke and I got up very early to see his family off on their considerably longer journey (about 10 hours to Pietermaritzburg). We left at a more seemly time of the day and made it back to Grahamstown in good time. Rhodes residence would only open the following day so we had booked ourselves into the only place that still had space for us, Whethu Backpackers. Graduation weekend was not yet over and all accommodation had been taken up by the friends and family of the grad students, so we weren't left with much of a choice of where to stay.

The Backpackers has a definite hippy vibe to it, with all sorts of odd things hanging from the ceiling, flowers painted on the bathroom doors, second hand furniture throughout and a welcoming feel.  Luke spent the afternoon sifting through his newly taken photos whilst I finally managed to finish off my work, making the most of the free internet that came with the accommodation. Making supper for the two of us, we decided to join in the ‘free love’ experience and make supper for the guy who manned the phones as well. Although Luke and I had been placed in an eight man dormitory, by the time we went to our bunk beds there were still no other guests that had arrived and so we had it to ourselves.



Our Last Day in the Wilderness


12 April 2012


Luke had risen earlier than everyone else today, and informed my half asleep self that there had been a layer of ice on the Bantam from the night before. No wonder we had been shivering away all night!

With today being our last full day to spend together before we parted ways, Luke’s family to Hilton and us to Grahamstown, we decided to make the most of it going on a long game drive. We were desperate to see an elephant and a cheetah before we left, but they were incredibly elusive much to our despair. Keeping our eyes peeled the whole while, we made our way to one of the picnic sites dotted around the reserve for a very late lunch (minus plates, knives, or any useful utensils). As amazing as this holiday has been, and as grateful as I am for having been exposed to the most fantastic natural beauties that only Africa can offer, my thoughts begin to turn towards my Grahamstown creature comforts. A guaranteed hot shower, a clean, soft, toasty warm bed ready-made to climb into, a permanent roof over my head and the luxury of not having to brave the darkness and the cold for a midnight jaunt to the loo. Mountain Zebra has great camping facilities, including fridges, plug points, a stove and a microwave in the communal kitchen, as well as clean and well maintained bathrooms – but I never once had a hot shower while I was there, so beware!


Monday, 19 November 2012

Shy Cheetahs and Elephants


12 April 2012

Luke had risen earlier than everyone else today, and informed my half asleep self that there had been a layer of ice on the Bantam from the night before. No wonder we had been shivering away all night.

With today being our last full day to spend together before we parted ways, Luke’s family to Hilton and us to Grahamstown, we decided to make the most of it going on a long game drive. We were desperate to see an elephant and a cheetah before we left, but they were incredibly elusive much to our despair. Keeping our eyes peeled the whole while, we made our way to one of the picnic sites dotted around the reserve for a very late lunch (minus plates, knives, or any useful utensils). 

As amazing as this holiday has been, and as grateful as I am for having been exposed to the most fantastic natural beauties that only Africa can offer, my thoughts were beginning to turn towards my Grahamstown creature comforts. A guaranteed hot shower, a clean, soft, toasty warm bed ready-made to climb into, a permanent roof over my head and the luxury of not having to brave the darkness and the cold for a midnight jaunt to the loo. Mountain Zebra has great camping facilities, including fridges, plug points, a stove and a microwave in the communal kitchen, as well as clean and well maintained bathrooms – but I never once had a hot shower while I was there, so beware!

Thursday, 15 November 2012

Nocturnal Eyes


11 April 2012

(I'm not sure what happened, but I seem to have skipped out the 10 April 2012 in my camping journal.)

The holiday work continued throughout that morning whilst the sunshine thawed out my bones. Luke and his family left on another game drive escapade that afternoon, leaving me behind to tackle my notes. In addition to what was seen the day before, they also saw wildebeest, blesbok and red-eyed doves. As the sun set, I joined them for a professional night time game drive. Our tour guide took us off road onto less traveled tracks, and used his torch to sweep the surrounding darkness for the glint of animal eyes. He astounded us by naming the dark shapes by the height of the eyes from ground level and the way the light glanced off them. Decked out in ponchos provided by the Mountain Zebra staff, munching on biltong, and notifying each other to the presence of something through whispers, we got to see bat eared foxes, duiker, gemsok, spring hares (such a fluffy tail!), spotted eagle owls and porcupine. It was a great opportunity, albeit a cold one, and we ended off the night with a hot meal of Petro’s other specialty – Cowboy Kos and wraps.

Saturday, 10 November 2012

A Precarious Game Drive


9 April 2012

A late start to the day allowed the sun to dry out our soaked campsite whilst we waited for Petro’s famously scrumptious beer bread to be made in Andy’s trusty Cobb. 

Luke and I enjoyed the afternoon game drive from two relatively unstable camp chairs on the back of Andy’s bakkie. Luke perfected his photographic skills on the multitude of game we encountered in the peaceful sun-kissed veldt: Kudu, eland, rooihartbees, springbok, steenbok, mountain zebra, black backed jackals, a jackal buzzard, baboons, golden orb spiders… the list goes on. 

That night Luke and I spent much of our time in the clean, bright and above all, warm communal kitchen, Luke sorting out his backlog of pictures and myself patiently working my way through my university homework. Sleeping in beanies and multiple layers of clothing meant that we were better prepared for the biting chill that enveloped us all too quickly.

Thursday, 8 November 2012

Making Tracks Toward Our Last Stop: Mountain Zebra


8 April 2012

Packing up in the rain is never fun, but the family pulled together and we were pretty successful in keeping most things dry. Luke and I managed to convince the family to stop in Jefferys Bay for lunch so that we could sample Trawlers hake, calamari and chips. A quaint little fish and chip shop with an unassuming atmosphere, the mother takes the orders while her son cooks at the back. Best fish I have ever had, Trawlers has a special place in my heart right alongside the Chinese restaurant across the road from our beach cottage back home (you’ll hear about that in blogs to come). Over the Easter weekend of 2011, Luke and I and a bunch of friends had camped out in J Bay and happened upon this little piece of paradise and we've never forgotten it. However, more of that story will come another time.  

A long day of driving got us to our next home: Mountain Zebra. The frigid night time temperatures left us in no doubt that winter had arrived before it’s time in this little game reserve, which left James cursing the fact that he had brought only two left shoes which meant no shoes and hence very cold feet.