Table Mountain: Breathless To Behold!

2 April 2012

Table Mountain is about a kilometre high. For people who on a regular occasion hike up the mountains of Kwa-Zulu Natal, Luke and I felt confident that we could conquer Table Mountain with ease. How wrong we were.

Simon’s dad is a seasoned hiker of Table Mountain and made the smart decision of starting us off up the back of the mountain before the sun had even risen. Starting off my spirits were high at finally getting the chance to stretch my legs as we meandered up the first little bit. Then we reached the steep rocks that make up the apostles’ faces, the first of a series of steep bits that require not only the legs but the arms and knees to get involved as well. Before long the pace was set with Simon’s sixty year old dad springing up the rock face as if he had boundless energy, followed by Simon with almost the same amount of vigor as his father… then Luke, a little slower and more out of breath than the others… and far behind Luke, me – huffing and puffing and cursing these Cape Tonians and their one and only steep mountain. See, hiking in Natal is different because the mountain trails curve back and forth across the land, gaining altitude at a respectable and gentle pace. The trail that tackles Table Mountain just goes straight up. No leniency allowed.

A brief respite was allowed half way up the apostles’, from which we could see Lion’s Head meeting with the ocean and the city languishing below it. Then more climbing until we reached the top of the apostle. A more gentle walk down the one side was short lived, as we were confronted with another almost vertical trail up the next side of the valley. Upon reaching the top of that next rise, my heart sank when I looked across and could see the point at which the cable cars arrived was now level with us and realised it would take another deep valley and another even steeper climb to reach that prayed for place. It wasn't all despair however, and we did get to do a little suprise spelunking in a tiny cave we came by.

Along the way Simon had frequently inquired after his father’s heart, to which the gruff reply every time was: “I’m fine.” I wish someone had thought to ask how my heart was doing! Up until that point we had been climbing in the mountain’s shadow, thank goodness, because we were sweating enough as it is at the exertion. However, the sun was up by now and extending its energy-sapping rays towards us. We called a halt at that time and sat under a shady rock to absorb the truly magnificent views that surrounded us and get some energy from Simon’s mum’s egg and mayo sammies (they certainly gave us wind fueled energy) and the other goodies she had packed.

Feeling better about our chances of surviving, we tackled the next valley. A shorter dip existed between that final rise and Table Mountain’s tourist destination, and we used the long steel ladders to finally get us to Table Mountain’s flat and rocky surface.


Hot, sticky and sweaty as I was, I became acutely aware of just how many freshly showered tourists had taken the cable car up to this place. There were hordes of them clogging up the trails across the roped off mountain, oohing and aahing at the view.  Having climbed Table Mountain over six hours, I appreciated the beauty and uniqueness of it far more than if I had simply taken the cable car. Every break we had taken on the trail had revealed to us a new aspect of the view from Table Mountain, and I was truly inspired by every panorama I had been exposed to. I would not have changed the experience for anything and the effort was indeed worth every minute of blood (ok, there was no blood), sweat and tears (there was a lot of the former, and a small portion of the latter was shed quietly I’m sure). If you wish to fully appreciate the majesty of Table Mountain take a walk up the apostles. It’s hard work but if a pensioner can do it, so can you! However, we did take the cable car down at the high price of R100 per person. There’s only so much appreciating a person can do before they pass out from dehydration.

Back at Simon’s house his mum made a late lunch for us. Now, I thought our sammies etc. were lunch so I wasn't hungry at all. Unfortunately Simon’s mum suffers from Obsessive Compulsive Feeding Disorder (O.C.F.D) which involves force feeding her guests until they are positively rotund. Not that one minds too much because her cooking is that amazing.

Our day’s experiences were not over yet though, and so we were able to digest our food bellies quietly on Clifton beach as afternoon slowly ebbed into evening and the sun set over the sea. Despite the ever present smell of decaying kelp, the scenery was idyllic and a few booze cruises pulled into the bay to watch the sun sink below the horizon along with those of us on the beach.

Soaking up the day’s last sunshine whilst Luke and Simon launched themselves from a rock into the freezing Atlantic waters, I felt my muscles and mind relax completely. Being quite a tense little person (Luke is constantly reminding me to “relax”) it takes a lot to make me stop worrying about anything and everything. Cape Town did the trick though, and one couldn't ask for better hosts than Simon and his family. Thank you!

Simon did a great GoPro video containing footage of both the Two Oceans Aquarium and our hike up Table Mountain. To see it click here (you know you want to*winks encouragingly*).